Dude, I used very basic techniques - three colors with highlights and an oil-wash. My eyes can't take spending too much time on these tiny models.Originally Posted by AdamHarry
Dude, I used very basic techniques - three colors with highlights and an oil-wash. My eyes can't take spending too much time on these tiny models.
What is an oil-wash - is that different from the cheat washes G.W. Puts out? I'm just going with a black base, dry brush of grey, and a black wash. then I go in with the white + green ink. touch up a bit, do some minor details and done. Oh, and I skip the highlight step. I'm almost thinking of going with the 3 primer approach + wash for "high light" look.
I still want to do something with the bases, so I'm working on that.
Pfft - math. ROLL 6's PROBLEM SOLVED.with 40k its best to get the rules straight then apply imagination and rationalize; you will only get annoyed doing it the other way round
~Bullymike
An oil wash is thinned down oil paints, washed where you want or over the whole model if you wish, then cleaned up with turpentine usually if you need to. LBursley has some stuff out there on it.
Oil-washes are well, oil based and use mineral spirits as the thinning medium, as opposed to water based washes. They have several advantages and a couple of disadvantages.
They are super thin and don't have much surface tension at all, so they flow really well into the recesses. They also gradiate better across a surface very well, giving you nice transitions. They can be easily edited or cleaned up, even after drying. The biggest disadvantage is that you have to coat your model to get them to flow correctly and not damage the previous layers, and then coat them again after drying if you want to paint over them.
Why would you wash over black with black, how black do you think it will get? Use a Dark grey - then your washes are doing some good., otherwise you might as well skip them.
More specifically there are two types of washes (I talk about these in my Dust: Afrika Korps write-up) - they are filter washes, and pin washes. Filter washes coat the model and provide shading/color modulation of the layers below them. Pin washes outline and enhance regions and volume of the model. Also, avoid using turpentine. It is smelly and potentially more harmful to your model and any plastics. Mineral spirits will give you the mixing properties you need while being less toxic and less harsh on your surfaces.
Cause I want the blackest black of Black! /metal
Also, I should say it's not really a dry brush of dark grey, it's more like the undercoat. I use the black wash on top of the dark grey to create the gradient. On a larger surface, I typically go back and do a thin highlight. Sometimes, I'll do a black primer, dark grey, grey/light grey highlight and then black GW wash (aka liquid skill/cheating).
that said, I probably should have started with grey primer, but I didn't have any...so, yeah. With these guys, I'm mostly hoping to get them table top ready and I'll clean them up when I have more time on my hands.
Pfft - math. ROLL 6's PROBLEM SOLVED.with 40k its best to get the rules straight then apply imagination and rationalize; you will only get annoyed doing it the other way round
~Bullymike
This is all great info. Do you have links? I would like to learn about this technique.
Pfft - math. ROLL 6's PROBLEM SOLVED.with 40k its best to get the rules straight then apply imagination and rationalize; you will only get annoyed doing it the other way round
~Bullymike
Probably the most informative, but a bit hard to understand. For our kind of minis you can simplify a lot to speed up the process, but this will show you the potential.
This is more applicable, but I would avoid the white mineral spirits.
Last edited by BDub; 06-26-2013 at 07:22 PM.
excellent. Thanks!
Pfft - math. ROLL 6's PROBLEM SOLVED.with 40k its best to get the rules straight then apply imagination and rationalize; you will only get annoyed doing it the other way round
~Bullymike
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote