http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ES6EdAS0Fk...itSquad001.jpg
Other pics here.
Fly Lords Post here.
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Nice!
Interesting color combo-- is that their "factory" colors?
Looks good.
White and red, very Japanese. Like 'em.
Love 'em Billy. Now you must play the Infinity. :D
LOL!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bushido
They are actually a pale green/blue and orange. The photos blew out cause i have no light diffusers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cavematt
Yey! I have to build my robos at some point, so I can pull Musashi out. He is the only guy without any stealth (boooo), but I was going for the minimum number of models needed, hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psyberwolfe
I will say awesome, they look great but did hell freeze over? I mean you finished a project and I started to paint again?
Yes...Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkwynn
Excellent "Plan AlphaOmega Paint Your Stuff" is coming to fruition! Muahahahahahaha!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkwynn
So now are we back to "Nick doesn't paint" or do Beamo and I have to finish painting an army first?Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkwynn
Yes. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by RealGenius
whoa whoa whoa, all these people painting and getting projects finished... I didn't sign up for this. What has gotten into the locals?!
The Apocalypse is coming. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by AdamHarry
pfft, for $75 it better be awesome.Quote:
Originally Posted by Psyberwolfe
...and then some.
anyways - they look really great billy! I don't have the brush control to paint these guys to that level. Instead I'm using block colors and washes. Also, I'm goofing around with white + green inks to make the glass visor look. Hope to see them on the table soon!
Post some pics bro!Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHarry
Dude, I used very basic techniques - three colors with highlights and an oil-wash. My eyes can't take spending too much time on these tiny models.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHarry
What is an oil-wash - is that different from the cheat washes G.W. Puts out? I'm just going with a black base, dry brush of grey, and a black wash. then I go in with the white + green ink. touch up a bit, do some minor details and done. Oh, and I skip the highlight step. I'm almost thinking of going with the 3 primer approach + wash for "high light" look.
I still want to do something with the bases, so I'm working on that.
An oil wash is thinned down oil paints, washed where you want or over the whole model if you wish, then cleaned up with turpentine usually if you need to. LBursley has some stuff out there on it.
Oil-washes are well, oil based and use mineral spirits as the thinning medium, as opposed to water based washes. They have several advantages and a couple of disadvantages.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHarry
They are super thin and don't have much surface tension at all, so they flow really well into the recesses. They also gradiate better across a surface very well, giving you nice transitions. They can be easily edited or cleaned up, even after drying. The biggest disadvantage is that you have to coat your model to get them to flow correctly and not damage the previous layers, and then coat them again after drying if you want to paint over them.
Why would you wash over black with black, how black do you think it will get? Use a Dark grey - then your washes are doing some good., otherwise you might as well skip them.
More specifically there are two types of washes (I talk about these in my Dust: Afrika Korps write-up) - they are filter washes, and pin washes. Filter washes coat the model and provide shading/color modulation of the layers below them. Pin washes outline and enhance regions and volume of the model. Also, avoid using turpentine. It is smelly and potentially more harmful to your model and any plastics. Mineral spirits will give you the mixing properties you need while being less toxic and less harsh on your surfaces.Quote:
Originally Posted by evil homer
Cause I want the blackest black of Black! /metalQuote:
Originally Posted by BDub
Also, I should say it's not really a dry brush of dark grey, it's more like the undercoat. I use the black wash on top of the dark grey to create the gradient. On a larger surface, I typically go back and do a thin highlight. Sometimes, I'll do a black primer, dark grey, grey/light grey highlight and then black GW wash (aka liquid skill/cheating).
that said, I probably should have started with grey primer, but I didn't have any...so, yeah. With these guys, I'm mostly hoping to get them table top ready and I'll clean them up when I have more time on my hands.
This is all great info. Do you have links? I would like to learn about this technique.Quote:
Originally Posted by BDub
Probably the most informative, but a bit hard to understand. For our kind of minis you can simplify a lot to speed up the process, but this will show you the potential.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamHarry
This is more applicable, but I would avoid the white mineral spirits.
excellent. Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by BDub
That's racist? Something else instead or? I've heard white mineral spirits can be rough on acrylic paint, but I've used odorless turpentine and it isn't so bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by BDub
I think I have odorless turpnoid, which is very similare to mineral spirits. Any of those solvents will be rough on anything, but acrylic forms a hard plastic coating when dry, so make sure its dry, and reinforce that with the gloss or satin coat, which also forms a hard plastic shell. As long as you don't soak the mini for a few hours you'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by RealGenius